by annieoh » Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:01 pm
I've been a hairstylist for years and just happened on this site. If you want my two cents, read on, if not, skip my post. ANY time you lighten hair with no exceptions you are opening the cuticle of the hair and stripping pigment out. Doesn't matter if the pigment is your natural pigment or hair dye, it is still stripping it. Incidently, artificial color is harder to lift than natural pigment thus even harder on your hair to lighten. Whenever you shampoo the lightener out (any lightener is bleach no matter what the package says, highlighters are bleach, if it lifts color more than two levels it is bleach!) you are closing the cuticle back up. The cuticle or outer layer of hair looks like fishscales. With each color service they close back down less tightly than before which is a result of chemical damage. When you dye your hair darker it is always healthier than lightening it. Darker than your natural shade and you are depositing pigment into the cortex rather than stripping it out. Depositing is of course better than stripping (common sense). The developer is what is the strong chemical in any color process. Dyeing darker requires a much gentler strength (say 10 to 20 volume rather than 40) to deposit color than bleach/highlighting/lightening or stipping color out. By each power of 10 that you increase developer (example 10 vol up to 20vol) you are actually making it 10 TIMES stronger. You can only bleach hair so many times before it becomes so dehydrated and porous that you end up with what we call "spaghetti hair" in the business. Coloring hair is ABSOLUTELY NOT LIKE PAINT! People think for some reason that they are just coating their hair another color like painting a wall. Rule of thumb, if you have thick, short hair....have at it. It's going to get cut off sooner rather than later. Your hair grows on average 6" a year. Do the math. If you bleach it, dye it, bleach it, dye it....The hair that is a year old is shot. Might feel okay after conditioning treatments now, maybe even two months from now, if you're lucky six months from now.......But regardless of who you are you will find yourself wondering why your hair won't seem to grow as fast as it used to, and you'll see these sprigs around your part that many fools will say is new growth. HELLO! It's growing as fast as it ever did, but it is now breaking off at the bottom at a relatively uniform length where it is most stressed. And that "new growth" you're talking about isn't new growth at all...it is hair that has broken off. Hair color is great, but if you're lightening it......go to a reputable stylist. Granted it isn't brain surgery, but there is far more chemistry involved than most people realize.