Misleading Hype On Anti-Ageing Creams

27-11-2008This Month 27th Nov 15:00

With more and more wrinkle creams hitting the high-street each month, skincare expert Peter Beard, warns that anti-ageing creams manufacturers could be deceiving thousands of women.

In a recently conducted poll by SkinGenesis, a huge 89% of respondents said they felt confused by the terminology used on anti-ageing products.

As well as the usual suspects like penta-peptides, pro-retinol A and coenzyme Q10, Peter says terms such as ‘derma-ceutical’ which use a skin-related prefix, coupled with a medical-sounding suffix, to make the name or description have more of an impact on consumers who are not so clued up on their professional terminology.

Peter, who is an expert in skincare and director of treatments at SkinGenesis, comments: "Companies that produce and promote anti-ageing creams should not try to mislead their customers by using professional jargon that the ordinary average Joe might not understand.

"It is deceiving when companies use made-up terms to make their product sound more powerful, which can sometimes instil false confidence in consumers, who think they’re using a medicinal product."

Peter has provided a handy little jargon buster, designed to put to rest any confusion surrounding certain ingredients:

Penta-peptide

This is a compound containing 5 amino acid molecules linked by peptide bonds. The body is capable of synthesising some amino acids but not others. The amino acids that the body cannot produce itself must be obtained from the diet. Synthesised peptides, such as those found in beauty products, can mimic peptides that occur naturally in the skin, and are specifically formulated to stimulate various skin functions, such as cell renewal, as well as mimic other cosmetic procedures, such as Botox.

Coenzyme Q10

A vitamin-like substance (sometimes called ubiquinone), coenzyme Q10 helps stabilise cell membranes while bringing more oxygen into the cells. It facilitates healthy cell renewal and inhibits oxidisation. Good natural sources include red meat, oily fish and spinach.

Marine Bio-peptides

This is one of those fabricated terms, with a sly ‘bio’ thrown in for good measure. These are peptides derived from something in the sea, which could be anything from contaminated sea water off the Bay of Naples to the hearts of the endangered arrowtooth flounder. Worth avoiding if you have a shrimp allergy!

Pro retinol A

Pro retinol is a form of vitamin A that has been formulated for topical application to the skin. It has proven characteristics of regulating cell growth and causing slight exfoliation. It is widely used as an anti-ageing ingredient and is particularly effective in treating sun damage, especially fine lines. It should be used with caution as it can cause the skin to be more sensitive to sunlight.

Pro Calcium

This is a form of calcium and is small enough to be absorbed into the skin where it can supplement the calcium in the epidermis. Higher levels of calcium in the epidermis will stimulate skin renewal by increasing cell turnover, which in turn will have a rejuvenating effect. Research has linked premature skin ageing and skin cancer with low levels of calcium in the skin.

Poly collagen peptides

These refer to peptides designed to stimulate collagen production and renewal. The poly prefix simply means there are many amino acids in the peptide.

So now you're a bit more clued it up it's time to hit the shops and find a cream that will work for you.