Pemberton, Austrailia

Small enough to retain its backwoods charm while maintaining the high standard of accommodation, eating and creative outlets that make the Southwest such an attractive destination, PEMBERTON is the most central base for touring the area.

You'll find the tourist information office on Brockman Street (daily 9am-5pm; tel 08/9776 1133), where you can pick up the excellent Pemberton-Northcliffe map and guide ($1), as well as information on horse riding, canoe and bicycle rental , and local tours . Round the back is the interactive Karri Forest Discovery Centre (daily 9am-5pm; donation), which replicates the forest environment

The region's single most popular attraction is the Gloucester Tree (CALM fee), situated on a clearly signposted road 3km southeast of town. At 61m, it's the world's tallest fire-lookout tree and its platform is accessible by climbing a spiral of horizontal stakes. Only a quarter of those who visit the tree actually climb up to the platform - the climb itself is more satisfying than the actual view - and those who do can have their efforts validated by a certificate available at the tourist office in town. The countryside all around is crisscrossed with peaceful walking trails and enchanting forest drives cutting deep into the wonderful karri woodlands. Beedelup National Park , on the Vasse Highway 20km west of town, has a short walk to a suspension bridge over Beedelup Falls , while the drive through the native karri forests of the Warren National Park , 10km southwest of town, will leave you in awe of these huge trees flourishing in their natural environment. If you have time for only one such drive, make it this one.

In addition to camping fees CALM now levies an entry fee or "pass" at the most-visited national parks in WA. The prices of the various passes are listed below. Throughout this section of the website, CALM parks that require an entry fee have the phrase "CALM fee" placed in parentheses after their names. You can obtain a pass from the entry gate or a CALM office.

• Day Pass : $8 per car, $3 per motorbike.
• Holiday Pass : $20 per vehicle, allowing entry into all parks for four weeks.
• Annual Local Park Pass : $15, giving unlimited access for a year to parks in a given area.
• Annual All Parks Pass : $45, allowing entry into all parks for a year.

Thirty kilometres south of Pemberton, NORTHCLIFFE is a small, untouristed logging town of little interest to passing visitors. Southwest of the town is the long spread of coastal heathland and inland dunes comprising the D'Entrecasteaux National Park . It's barely accessible, although Southern Forest Adventures in Northcliffe (tel 08/9776 1222) offers one- to five-day 4WD tours as well as a weekend package canoeing down to the park and returning by 4WD. Windy Harbour , 30km south of Northcliffe, is the only point between Augusta and Walpole where non-4WD vehicles can get to the ocean shore. There is a small break in the limestone cliffs here, allowing access to a couple of exposed white beaches and a basic campsite , usually occupied by fishermen.