Travel Guide - Finland

Mainland Scandinavia's most culturally isolated and least understood country, Finland has been independent only since 1917, having been ruled for hundreds of years by first the Swedes and then the Tsarist Russians.

Much of its history involves a struggle for recognition and survival, and it's not surprising that modern-day Finns have a well-developed sense of their own culture, manifest in the widely popular Golden Age paintings of Gallen-Kallela and others, the music of Sibelius, the National Romantic style of architecture, and the deeply ingrained values of rural life.

Finland is mostly flat and punctuated by huge forests and lakes, but has wide regional variations. The South contains the least dramatic scenery, but the capital, Helsinki, more than compensates, with its brilliant architecture and superb collections of national history and art. Stretching from the Russian border in the east to the industrial city of Tampere, the vast waters of the Lake Region provide a natural means of transport for the timber industry - indeed, water here is a more common sight than land. Towns lie on narrow ridges between lakes, giving even major manufacturing centres green and easily accessible surrounds. North of here, Finland ranges from the flat western coast of Ostrobothnia to the thickly forested heartland of Kainuu and gradually rising fells of Lapland, Finland's most alluring terrain and home to the Sami, the semi-nomadic reindeer herders found all over northern Scandinavia

About a third of Finland is consumed by the Lake Region , a huge area of bays, inlets and islands, interspersed with dense forests. Despite holding much of Finland's industry, it's a tranquil, verdant region, and even Tampere , Finland's major industrial city, enjoys a peaceful lakeside setting, as well as being easily accessible from Helsinki by train. The eastern part of the Lake Region is the most atmospheric, slender ridges furred with conifers linking the few sizeable landmasses, reached from Tampere via Jyväskylä , whose wealth of buildings by Alvar Aalto make it a worthwhile break. Direct from Helsinki, the route goes via dull Lahti to the lakes' regional centre, Savonlinna , which stretches delectably across several islands and boasts a superb medieval castle. Further north, Kuopio , where many displaced Karelians settled after World War II, makes a decent break on the way up to Kajaani.

Though it may at first seem a stodgy, unsophisticated cuisine, Finnish food is an interesting mix of Western and Eastern influences, with Scandinavian-style fish specialities and exotic meats like reindeer and elk alongside dishes that bear a Russian stamp - pastries, and casseroles strong on cabbage and pork. If you're staying in a hotel, breakfast ( aamiainen ) is a sumptuous affair, a buffet of herring, eggs, cereals, cheese, salami and bread. Later in the day you can lunch on the economical snacks sold in ubiquitous market halls ( kauppahalli ) or in their adjoining cafeterias, where you are charged by the weight of food on your plate. Most train stations and some bus stations and supermarkets also have cafeterias proffering a selection of snacks and light meals, and the Grilli and Nakkikioski street stands turn out burgers and hot dogs for ?2.50-3.50. Otherwise, campus cafeterias or mensas are the cheapest places to get a hot dish, with a choice of three menus, with bread and coffee, for ?2-3.40. Theoretically you have to be a student but you are unlikely to be asked for ID, though if you can prove you're a student, a discount is in order. In a regular restaurant, or ravintola , lunch ( lounas ) is the cheapest option, many places offering a lunchtime buffet table ( voileipäpöytä or seisova pöytä ) stacked with a choice of traditional goodies for a set price of around €8.50-13. A baari , an unlicensed restaurant with a range of Finnish dishes and snacks, is another low-cost option, although most close early - at 5 or 6pm. Pizzerias, too, are widespread, serving "lunch specials" for €6-9.

Whilst the attitude to drinking can seem austere Finland has a truly staggering problem with alcoholism and in some of the smaller towns bars can be quite depressing places. In Helsinki and the bigger towns, however, the drinking culture is more sophisticated and you'll be able to find numerous appealing places to have a jar or two.

Beer ( olut ) falls into three categories: "light beer" (I-Olut), like a soft drink; "medium strength beer" ( Keskiolut , III-Olut), perceptibly alcoholic, sold in shops and cafés; and "strong beer" (A-Olut or IV-Olut), on a par with the stronger European beers, and only available at fully licensed restaurants, clubs and ALKO shops. Even the smallest town will have one, and prices don't vary. Strong beers, like Lapin Kulta Export, Karjala, Lahden A, Olvi Export and Koff porter, cost about €1.35 for a 300ml bottle. Imported beers go for €1.50-2 a bottle. As for spirits , Finlandia vodka is €27 and Koskenkorva, a popular rough form of vodka, €25 per litre.