Guatemala - Quetzaltenango

To the west of Lago de Atitlán, the highlands rise to form a steep-sided ridge topped by a string of forested peaks. On the far side of this is the Quetzaltenango basin , a sweeping expanse of level ground that forms the natural hub of the western highlands.

It was here that the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado first struggled up into the highlands and came upon the abandoned city of Xelajú (near Quetzaltenango), entering it without any resistance. Six days later he and his troops fought the K'iche' in a decisive battle on the nearby plain, massacring the Maya warriors. Legend has it that Alvarado himself killed the K'iche' king, Tecún Umán, in hand-to-hand combat.

Food and Drink
There are more than enough restaurants to choose from in Quetzaltenango, with a strip of reasonable pizza places on 14 Avenida and a number of new cafés spread across the city. Note that almost nowhere opens before 8am in the morning, so forget early breakfasts . After dark, things are generally quiet in the week, but there are a number of lively bars that fill up at the weekend, plus a small club scene, with a couple of venues in the centre of town, and other alternatives in the suburbs.

Nightlife
Considering the size of Quetzaltenango, there's not that much going on in the evenings and the streets are generally quiet by about 9pm. There are a few bars worth visiting, however. At the popular Salón Tecón , on the west side of the plaza, you can down cuba libres , enjoy draught beer and great bar food, and listen to the latest sounds imported by the gringo bar staff. The more sedate but classy Don Rodrigo , 1 C and 14 Av, has leather-topped bar stools, more draught beer and good, but pricey sandwiches. Close to the Teatro Municipal is a cluster of hip new places including the bar El Zaguan , at 14 Av A and 1 C, Zona 1, and the club Bukana's , almost next door, for salsa and merengue. Of the clubs on the outskirts of town, the Music Center attracts a loyal young local clientele, while Loro's appeals to an older crowd.

Quetzaltenango is a good place to catch movies, with a number of cinemas , though you shouldn't have to stray further than the excellent Cine Paraóso on 14 Avenida A, near the Teatro Municipal, which shows a very varied selection of independent movies from all over the world, plus the odd quality Hollywood production. For theatre head for the refurbished Teatro Roma, also on 14 Avenida A, which often stages interesting productions. The Casa Verde (also known as the Green House ), at 12 Av 1-40 (tel 763 0271), has a lively cultural programme including theatre, dance and poetry readings, plus salsa nights at weekends. To find what's on in Xela, pick up a copy of the free listings magazine, Fin de Semana , available in many of the popular bars and cafós.

Thibgs to do
There aren't many things to do or see in Quetzaltenango, but if you have an hour or two to spare then it's worth wandering through the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and taking in the museum in the Casa de la Cultura. The hub of the place is the central plaza, officially known as the Parque Centro América , whose mass of mock-Greek columns and imposing banks exude an atmosphere of dignified calm - there's none of the buzz of business that you'd expect, except on the first Sunday of the month when the plaza hosts a good artesanías market with blankets, basketry and piles of típica weavings for sale. The northern end of the plaza is dominated by the grand old Banco del Occidente , complete with sculptured flaming torches. On the west side is Bancafé and the impressive but crumbling Pasaje Enríquez , planned as a sparkling arcade of upmarket shops but left derelict for many years, though it has now been partially revived. Inside you'll find the Salón Tecún Bar , the hippest place in town, and a good place for meeting other travellers.