Japanese treasures - Kobe

An historic port and distinct city in its own right, KOBE , the capital of Hyogo-ken, now seems more like the fashionable western suburb of sprawling Osaka, 33km east around Osaka Bay. You don't visit Kobe for the sights, which are of limited interest, but more for its human scale, dramatic location on a sliver of land between the sea and Rokko-san, its cosmopolitan atmosphere and great range of food.

Although Kobe has almost totally recovered from the 1995 earthquake , it has far from forgotten this horrific event; one of the city's most interesting new "attractions" is the Kobe Phoenix Plaza , which documents the quake and its aftermath. The nearby Kobe City Museum , covering the port's earlier illustrious history, is also worth a look, as is the space-age Fashion Museum on the man-made Rokko Island, east of the city harbour.

Heading into hills, you can relax at Arima Onsen , one of Japan's oldest spa resorts. West of the city is the Akashi Kaikyo Ohashi , the longest suspension bridge in the world , linking Kansai directly with Shikoku via Awaji-shima. Continue some 55km further west along the coast and you'll arrive at Himeji , home of Japan's best original castle Himeji-jo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.

Eating and drinking
Kobe is a gourmet's paradise, its long history of international exchange blessing it with a diverse range of excellent restaurants . The most cosmopolitan dining area is between Sannomiya Station and Kitano-zaka , where you can eat everything from Sri Lankan curries to the local delicacy, Kobe Beef - expensive slices of meat heavily marbled with fat. Another exciting place to head of an evening is the Harbor Land development, where you can take your pick from a multitude of cafés and restaurants in the bayside Mosaic mall. Fans of Chinese cuisine shouldn't miss out on Nankin-machi (Chinatown), where long queues form outside the most popular restaurants; if you can't wait, there are plenty of street stalls selling takeaway dumplings, noodles and other dishes.

Entertainment
While Kobe doesn't have as strong a club scene as neighbouring Osaka, it does have a good range of bars , most clustered around Sannomiya and Motomachi - all within easy walking distance of each other. There are also several cinemas around Sannomiya, and at the Mosaic mall there's a four-screen multiplex.

Outside of Kobe
In a country so devoid of flat land, the great rice-growing plains of KANSAI , the district around Osaka and Kyoto, are imbued with an almost mystical significance. This was where the first proto-nation took root, in the historic region known as Yamato, and where a distinct Japanese civilization evolved from the strong cultural influences of China and Korea. Kansai people are tremendously proud of their pivotal role in Japanese history and tend to look down on Tokyo, which they regard as an uncivilized upstart. Today, its superb legacy of temples, palaces, shrines, gardens, sculpture and crafts makes Kansai one of Japan's top tourist destinations.

Though Kyoto is nowhere near as big as Osaka, it's still a major city, which keeps many of its charms hidden from view. You could spend a lifetime exploring Kyoto's bewildering array of ancient Buddhist temples and gorgeously decorated imperial palaces wrapped round with exquisite gardens . Until Emperor Meiji decamped for the bright lights of Tokyo in 1868, Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital and to this day represents the last word in cultural refinement. Its elaborate cuisine, traditional theatre, even its everyday crafts, reflect this incomparable lineage. To avoid cultural overload, it's best to take Kyoto in small chunks, and to spend at least one day in the surrounding districts. Hiei-zan , in particular, offers not only majestic temples but also an escape from the city streets, while in Uji 's Byodo-in you'll find one of the country's supreme architectural masterpieces.

Wherever you choose to stay in Kansai, don't miss the opportunity to visit Himeji , on the area's western edge, to explore Himeji-jo , Japan's most impressive castle. Himeji also has a couple of intriguing museums in buildings designed by top contemporary architects and the lovely Himeji Koko-en , nine connected gardens laid out according to traditional principles.