City Guide - Johannesburg

Fast-paced, frenetic JOHANNESBURG has had a reputation for immorality, greed and violence ever since its first plot auction in December 1886. Despite its status as the largest and richest city in the country, it has never been the seat of government or national political power, allowing it to concentrate fully on what it has always done best:

make money and get ahead. Those priorities have, over the years, cut across political and racial lines: only in Jo'burg would ambitious black Africans like Nelson Mandela have been able to train in a white law firm; only in Jo'burg would creative hotspots like Sophiatown and Alexandra exist at all; and only in Jo'burg would white liberalism have been given any intellectual recognition in the dark days of apartheid.

Even so, the divisions of the old South Africa are as apparent here as anywhere else. Ridiculously opulent white mansions in leafy suburbs are protected by high walls and razor wire, only a mile or two from sprawling shanty towns housing millions of intensely poor blacks. As the new political dispensation sees formerly white areas administratively yoked with the black townships, so the city struggles to cope with massive pressures on housing, services and law and order. Nowhere is the new tension more in evidence than in the previously all-white central business district, where an influx of poor blacks, and a soaring crime rate, has caused a mass exodus of shops and restaurants to the northern suburbs.

All of Jo'burg's shopping malls are well-stocked with restaurants, some housing the very top-notch venues, but more frequently they are dominated by unadventurous, bland chains. Thankfully, a number of suburbs have small, interesting eating places; the key places are 7th Street in Melville , the junction of Greenway and Gleneagles in Greenside , Grant Avenue in Norwood (to the east of Houghton) and, to a lesser extent, 4th Avenue in Parkhurst .

Johannesburg has always offered the best entertainment and nightlife in South Africa: the city draws top performers from all over the world, and its well-integrated audiences are the most sophisticated around. The best way to find out what's on is to keep your ears open, listening to the local radio stations and keeping your eyes peeled for roadside posters and leaflets. SA Citylife magazine has a good blend of features and listings, but only comes out monthly; the Mail & Guardian newspaper publishes decent weekly listings and articles on the main events, while the daily Star newspaper tracks mainstream cinema and theatre. Tickets for most events can be booked from Computicket (tel 011 445 8000 or 083 915 8000, ) or Ticketweb (tel 083 140 0500, ).

If you're wandering around on foot, the crime you are most at risk from is mugging (sometimes violent). Certain areas carry a much higher risk than others; be particularly alert when exploring the central business district (CBD), Braamfontein and Newtown, and only walk the streets here during office hours. Joubert Park, Hillbrow and Berea are regarded at present as no-go zones, and although Yeoville and Observatory are a little safer, these are places for those who are particularly confident or have someone to show them around. You are very unlikely to be mugged on the streets in Melville, Parktown or Rosebank.

In high-risk areas, try not to look like a tourist. Ideally, travel in a small group. Study maps beforehand (not on street corners), avoid asking for directions from passers-by, and don't walk around with luggage. Try to look into the crowds coming your way, to see if there are any groups of young men (the main offenders) moving as a block. If you're carrying valuables, leave a portion of them easily available, so that muggers are likely to be quickly satisfied and not investigate you further. Never resist muggers; running like hell can work, but some have guns, which you won't know about until too late. You're unlikely to be mugged on public transport but, as always, it's wise to stay alert, especially around busy spots such as Park station and bus stations or taxi ranks. Waiting for buses in the northern suburbs is generally safe.

Don't expect too much from the police . Police on the street are rare, and normally have other distractions than keeping an eye out for tourists. In the city centre and Rosebank you can make use of City Ambassadors , identified by their yellow caps and bibs. These are people hired by a partnership between local government and local shops and businesses to provide an anti-crime presence on the street. Some are better trained than others to help tourists, but you can always approach them for directions, or if you think you're being followed.

With its vast availability of goods, Johannesburg is a magnet for consumers from all over the subcontinent, who zoom down the highways to stock up before heading back the same day. For visitors, the city is the best place in South Africa to find arts and crafts , with excellent flea markets and galleries offering a plethora of goods, some of a very high quality. As the queen of mall culture , Johannesburg is also home to over twenty major malls (daily 8am-6pm), most of which are depressingly anonymous. A handful, however (listed below), are so plush and enormous that they merit a visit in their own right.