Mostar For Independent Travellers

The Balkans are once again back on the tourist trail an area once loved for its the charm and mystery so what is it that is so special.

One of the most prominent symbols that proves things are returning to normality is the rebuilt historic Stari Most bridge in Mostar destroyed during the conflict a decade ago. The Stari Most has been returned to its 450-year-old former glory, straddling the Neretva River and once more bridging the ethnic gap that for centuries has divided this old eastern European city, the majority of Muslims live on one side of the Neretva; Catholics the other, Orthodox Serbs are now a small minority in Mostar.

As international tourists return to Bosnia Herzegovina, the charm and beauty of this mysterious part of the world visitors are rediscovering a totally different type destination.

The last bullets in the three-year Balkan conflict were fired over ten years ago but the scars remain, damaged and in many cases devastated buildings still dot the landscape in and around Mostar.

Like their neighbours in surrounding countries, Bosnians are now trying to get on with life, rebuilding their economy and international tourism is a major component.

What Mostar and indeed other areas of the country offer are an incredible variety of choices, which extend from historical sites and different cultures to a huge range of scenic views that range from the harsh yet beautiful mountains to the lush features on the coast.

Mostar is in the hottest south-western sector of Bosnia Herzegovina, and is only a few hours by coach to Dubrovnik and Split, major tourist spots on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia.

For the independant traveller it can still be a little difficult getting about the country and there is still areas within the group of states that made up this area that carry government cautions to travellers.

The Internet and Lonely Planet guides are good starting points, but even these prove a bit sparten regards information.

The euro is the preferred foreign currency, though each countries still have thier own currency in neihbouring Serbia Montenegro it is the dinar, Bosnia Herzegovina has the mark and Croatia the kuna.

The route we took was to fly to Belgrade and journey to Mostar Bosnia using the bus services.

Regular flights between Belgrade and the Bosnian capital, Sarajevo, commercial flights elsewhere are not available. The Independant traveller also needs to take into account that there are few rail links today, and the roads range from wide motorways at the best to almost dirt tracks at the other end of the scale.

Like other parts of Bosnia, Mostar's airport is restricted to military use, particularly by the peace-keeping forces, car rental and travelling across the borders is not an option, so the best choice is the over night autobus's to and from Mostar.

This can be quite an adventurous and very tiring 12-hour journey which starts at 8pm in Belgrade and ends in Mostar in time for breakfast, then from there you can get travel on to a number of destinations.The journey is broken by a 3am passport check at the border

It is also worth noting that these journies cannot be booked via your travel agent as we could find no information on the Internet or through travel agents about bus services, so this was something organised while visiting Belgrade.

The bus travel is cheap £10 one way and the coach's are quite modern and reasonably well appointed.

Journey's end in Mostar was an incredible sight. Mostar lies deep in a valley, a very old part of eastern Europe with minarets and church spires competing for prominence on the skyline.

Turkish-style markets lining the narrow streets on the approaches to the cities centrepiece the Stari Most, its UNESCO-funded rebuilding completed in June 2004, these stalls offer visitors souvenirs ranging from bridge miniatures and brass coffee pots and grinders to tapestries and fine crochet work.

Travelling through Bosnia Herzegovina and Croatia is a culinary treat, where the wine is cheap and rakia the local plum brandy offered at all meals, even breakfast, meat features largely inmost meals with lamb, pork and veal on nearly all menus.

Restaurants, tavern's or cafe's sporting the common sign "grill" usually cook their own spit-roast lamb or veal.

The traditional dish, burek, made from minced pork and lamb in a case of filo pastry, is available everywhere. Accommodation in Mostar is plentiful and reasonably priced though as you would expect the top end of the market is not well catered for.

Tourists, particularly from nearby countries including Hungary, Slovenia, Italy, Germany and Austria, are now returning to southern Bosnia with visitor numbers starting to move back towards the pre-conflict era.

This can be another way of getting around for the less intrepide traveller as there are many short organised coach trips from Dubrovnik and Split, which offer a package taking in both Mostar and nearby Medjugorje.

The latter town attracts thousands of visitors each year, taking a pilgrimage to the holy site at St James's Church, regarded as one of the most important destinations for Roman Catholics globally. For those planning a visit to southern Bosnia, using Dubrovnik as the staging point makes most sense, plus it gives visitors the chance to see the Dalmatian coast which rivals similar destinations in Greece or Italy.

But if it's real adventure you want, take the local bus as you travel through Bosnia Herzegovia one of the best is the 14-hour bus journey from Mostar, due north to the Croatian capital, Zagreb.

MOSTAR: Getting there:Fly from London, travel to Belgrade and Zagreb. Lauda Airlines' partner, Austrian Airlines, has connections throughout the Balkans. Daily buses operate between Belgrade and Zagreb and most major centres in Bosnia.

Best time to visit: September/October or late summer after the peak holiday period when the weather is still warm and usually dry.

What to see: The historic rebuilt bridge in Mostar; St James's Church, revered by Roman Catholics throughout the world; the beautiful Dalmatian coast, which rivals destinations in Greece or Italy; Bosnia Herzegovina

Details:Lonely Planet

The Balkans are once again back on the tourist trail an area once loved for its the charm and mystery so what is it that is so special.

One of the most prominent symbols that proves things are returning to normality is the rebuilt historic Stari Most bridge in Mostar destroyed during the conflict a decade ago. The Stari Most has been returned to its 450-year-old former glory, straddling the Neretva River and once more bridging the ethnic gap that for centuries has divided this old eastern European city, the majority of Muslims live on one side of the Neretva; Catholics the other, Orthodox Serbs are now a small minority in Mostar.

As international tourists return to Bosnia Herzegovina, the charm and beauty of this mysterious part of the world visitors are rediscovering a totally different type destination.

The last bullets in the three-year Balkan conflict were fired over ten years ago but the scars remain, damaged and in many cases devastated buildings still dot the landscape in and around Mostar.

Like their neighbours in surrounding countries, Bosnians are now trying to get on with life, rebuilding their economy and international tourism is a major component.

What Mostar and indeed other areas of the country offer are an incredible variety of choices, which extend from historical sites and different cultures to a huge range of scenic views that range from the harsh yet beautiful mountains to the lush features on the coast.

Mostar is in the hottest south-western sector of Bosnia Herzegovina, and is only a few hours by coach to Dubrovnik and Split, major tourist spots on the Dalmatian coast of Croatia.

For the independant traveller it can still be a little difficult getting about the country and there is still areas within the group of states that made up this area that carry government cautions to travellers.

The Internet and Lonely Planet guides are good starting points, but even these prove a bit sparten regards information.

The euro is the preferred foreign currency, though each countries still have thier own currency in neihbouring Serbia Montenegro it is the dinar, Bosnia Herzegovina has the mark and Croatia the kuna.

The route we took was to fly to Belgrade and journey to Mostar Bosnia using the bus services.

Regular flights between Belgrade and the Bosnian capital, Sarajevo, commercial flights elsewhere are not available. The Independant traveller also needs to take into account that there are few rail links today, and the roads range from wide motorways at the best to almost dirt tracks at the other end of the scale.

Like other parts of Bosnia, Mostar's airport is restricted to military use, particularly by the peace-keeping forces, car rental and travelling across the borders is not an option, so the best choice is the over night autobus's to and from Mostar.

This can be quite an adventurous and very tiring 12-hour journey which starts at 8pm in Belgrade and ends in Mostar in time for breakfast, then from there you can get travel on to a number of destinations.The journey is broken by a 3am passport check at the border

It is also worth noting that these journies cannot be booked via your travel agent as we could find no information on the Internet or through travel agents about bus services, so this was something organised while visiting Belgrade.

The bus travel is cheap £10 one way and the coach's are quite modern and reasonably well appointed.

Journey's end in Mostar was an incredible sight. Mostar lies deep in a valley, a very old part of eastern Europe with minarets and church spires competing for prominence on the skyline.

Turkish-style markets lining the narrow streets on the approaches to the cities centrepiece the Stari Most, its UNESCO-funded rebuilding completed in June 2004, these stalls offer visitors souvenirs ranging from bridge miniatures and brass coffee pots and grinders to tapestries and fine crochet work.

Travelling through Bosnia Herzegovina and Croatia is a culinary treat, where the wine is cheap and rakia the local plum brandy offered at all meals, even breakfast, meat features largely inmost meals with lamb, pork and veal on nearly all menus.

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