Travel Guide - Trinidad and Tobago

Just off the coast of the South American mainland they were once part of, Trinidad and Tobago (usually shortened to T&T) form the southernmost islands of the Lesser Antilles chain and the most influential republic in the Eastern Caribbean.

They are the most exciting, underexplored and un-contrived of the Caribbean islands, rich in indigenous culture. A cultural pacemaker best known as the home and heart of West Indian Carnival , the nation can also boast having the most diverse and absorbing society in the region.

T&T remain relatively inexpensive as natural gas and oil reserves have ensured economic independence and freedom from the tourist trade. Regionally, they are the richest destinations for eco-tourism , combining the flora and fauna of the Caribbean with the wilder aspect of the South American mainland. In Trinidad, you can hike through undisturbed tropical rainforest , take a boat ride through mangrove swamps and watch leatherback turtles nest on remote beaches. Birdwatching , with more than 430 species in an area of 4830 square kilometres, is among the world's best. Tobago (300sq km) has glorious beaches and stunning coral reefs. Declared the " Disneyland of diving ", Tobago has the largest brain coral in the world and sightings of manta rays are common.

Equally absorbing are T&T's dynamic towns and cities, showcases for the architectural, religious and cultural traditions of their cosmopolitan populations. The 1.3 million inhabitants hail from India, China, Portugal and Syria as well as Africa, England, France and Spain, and though racial tensions are inevitably present, Trinbagonians (as they're collectively known) co-exist with good humour, and are proud of their multiculturalism . The result is a highly creative culture with a lively music scene that rivals even Jamaica.

Unlike its Caribbean neighbours, Trinidad experienced full-scale slavery for a relatively short fifty years, while the Dutch, French and British were too busy fighting over Tobago to dedicate it to the demands of King Sugar. Consequently, the national psyche is characterized by a strong sense of identity and a laid-back enjoyment of the good things in life, best displayed in the local propensity for " liming " - meeting friends for a drink and a chat. With more than a dozen public holidays, local festivals and the pre-Lenten Carnival, a no-holds-barred two days of dancing in the street, the islands' reputation of knowing how to party is well deserved.

A visit to Trinidad inevitably begins in the capital, Port of Spain , home to most of the island's accommodation and the centre of its transport system. The most accessible beaches are on the north coast, while the Northern Range offers excellent hiking and superb birdwatching. In contrast to the north, central Trinidad is dominated by flat agricultural plains with a population of primarily Indian descent. The island's greatest natural assets are located here: Caroni swamp , nesting area of the scarlet ibis, and the protected wetlands of Nariva , home of manatees and anacondas. The burgeoning city of San Fernando is a friendly base to explore Trinidad's "deep south", an area largely unvisited by tourists, where modern oil towns contrast with the picturesque fishing villages and deserted beaches.

In Tobago , the majority of visitors stay in the hotel-dominated western tip. A more genuine picture of local life can be seen in the capital, Scarborough , and along the northern coast in friendly Castara or at the fishing village of Charlotteville .

Most travellers come to T&T between January and March, during the Carnival season when the climate is at its most forgiving (25-30°C/72-87°F). By May, the dry season parches the lush landscape and bush fires often rage through the hills. The rainy season starts in June and lasts till December, but in September there's a dry spell known as the petit carem , an Indian summer of two to four weeks; it's an excellent time to visit, with flights at low-season rates. Tobago hoteliers hike rates during high season (mid-Dec to mid-April), as do Trinidad hotels during Carnival, but smaller hotels on both islands charge the same all year round.

One of the highlights of Trinidad and Tobago is the fantastic cuisine, a unique blend of African, Indian, Chinese and European influences. Although you may be offered insipid tourist-oriented fare in larger hotels, local cooking - meaning anything from Indian curry to creole oil-down , or Spanish-style pastelles - still reigns supreme.

The national dish is the creole staple, callaloo - dasheen leaves cooked with okra and coconut. Other creole favourites are oil-down , vegetables stewed in coconut milk, cowheel soup and fish broth.Wild meat , such as agouti, lappe, manicou and even iguana are a staple of Tobago's harvest festivals, while no trip to that island would be complete without tasting the delicious coconut curried crab and dumpling. Indian influences have created the unofficial national dish: invented in Trinidad, the roti is a stretchy flat bread (called a skin) containing curried meat, vegetables or fish.

In Trinidad , where tourism is minimal and most people prefer to eat at home, restaurant culture is only just developing. There are stylish places to eat but the majority are no-nonsense venues where the food is invariably inexpensive and delicious. The best option is street food; doubles (runny channasandwiched betweensoft, fried bara bread), oysters, corn soup and a variety of pies - fish, vegetable and meat. The St James district of Port of Spain offers particularly rich pickings, and with food subject to stringent hygiene checks, eating on the hop rarely constitutes a health risk. The ubiquitous bakeand shark is best consumed on Maracas beach, where vendors compete to produce the tastiest version of fried bread filled with shark meat. Tobago has more tourist-oriented restaurants with prices to match. Local seafood and creole dishes feature, but you'll encounter plenty of imported US steak and chips as well. Remember tax (up to 15 percent) and a service charge (usually 10 percent) will be added to your bill.

Carib and Stag are the light, locally produced lagers, while Royal Extra or Mackeson stouts are excellent local alternatives to Guinness - also brewed in Trinidad and used in the local Guinness-flavoured ice cream. The best rum is produced by the Trinidadian Angostura/Fernandes manufacturers, makers of the world-famous Angostura Bitters; their Black Label red rum is considered sublime.

The best non-alcoholic thirst quencher is the vitamin- and mineral-packed coconut water , fresh from street vendors. Mauby , made from tree bark, cloves and aniseed, is delicious but an acquired taste, while fuchsia sorrel , made from a flower of the hibiscus family, is a sweet drink enjoyed at Christmas.

Just off the coast of the South American mainland they were once part of, Trinidad and Tobago (usually shortened to T&T) form the southernmost islands of the Lesser Antilles chain and the most influential republic in the Eastern Caribbean.

They are the most exciting, underexplored and un-contrived of the Caribbean islands, rich in indigenous culture. A cultural pacemaker best known as the home and heart of West Indian Carnival , the nation can also boast having the most diverse and absorbing society in the region.

T&T remain relatively inexpensive as natural gas and oil reserves have ensured economic independence and freedom from the tourist trade. Regionally, they are the richest destinations for eco-tourism , combining the flora and fauna of the Caribbean with the wilder aspect of the South American mainland. In Trinidad, you can hike through undisturbed tropical rainforest , take a boat ride through mangrove swamps and watch leatherback turtles nest on remote beaches. Birdwatching , with more than 430 species in an area of 4830 square kilometres, is among the world's best. Tobago (300sq km) has glorious beaches and stunning coral reefs. Declared the " Disneyland of diving ", Tobago has the largest brain coral in the world and sightings of manta rays are common.

Equally absorbing are T&T's dynamic towns and cities, showcases for the architectural, religious and cultural traditions of their cosmopolitan populations. The 1.3 million inhabitants hail from India, China, Portugal and Syria as well as Africa, England, France and Spain, and though racial tensions are inevitably present, Trinbagonians (as they're collectively known) co-exist with good humour, and are proud of their multiculturalism . The result is a highly creative culture with a lively music scene that rivals even Jamaica.

Unlike its Caribbean neighbours, Trinidad experienced full-scale slavery for a relatively short fifty years, while the Dutch, French and British were too busy fighting over Tobago to dedicate it to the demands of King Sugar. Consequently, the national psyche is characterized by a strong sense of identity and a laid-back enjoyment of the good things in life, best displayed in the local propensity for " liming " - meeting friends for a drink and a chat. With more than a dozen public holidays, local festivals and the pre-Lenten Carnival, a no-holds-barred two days of dancing in the street, the islands' reputation of knowing how to party is well deserved.

A visit to Trinidad inevitably begins in the capital, Port of Spain , home to most of the island's accommodation and the centre of its transport system. The most accessible beaches are on the north coast, while the Northern Range offers excellent hiking and superb birdwatching. In contrast to the north, central Trinidad is dominated by flat agricultural plains with a population of primarily Indian descent. The island's greatest natural assets are located here: Caroni swamp , nesting area of the scarlet ibis, and the protected wetlands of Nariva , home of manatees and anacondas. The burgeoning city of San Fernando is a friendly base to explore Trinidad's "deep south", an area largely unvisited by tourists, where modern oil towns contrast with the picturesque fishing villages and deserted beaches.

In Tobago , the majority of visitors stay in the hotel-dominated western tip. A more genuine picture of local life can be seen in the capital, Scarborough , and along the northern coast in friendly Castara or at the fishing village of Charlotteville .

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