African beauty - Lesotho

Entirely surrounded by South Africa and sometimes mistaken for one of apartheid's ill-conceived semi-states, the aptly named "mountain kingdom" of Lesotho (pronounced Le-sue-toe) is, in fact, proudly independent of and very different in character to its dominant neighbour. One refreshing physical (and psychological) contrast is the almost total absence of fences in Lesotho,

which means you can hike into the upland regions at will, while meeting some of the most hospitable people of the region.

The other thing you'll notice pretty quickly is that Lesotho is virtually treeless, with the exception of the invasive and water-hungry eucalyptus and the peach trees introduced by French missionaries a century ago. Indeed, the country - once the grain basket of the region - is in deep ecological trouble, and acres of irreplaceable topsoil, loosened by decades of over-farming, are washed away down its rivers each year.

The Lesotho lowlands form an east-facing crescent around the country, and are where you'll find all the nation's major towns, including the busily practical capital of Maseru , with its very African mix of new glass buildings and dusty streets, and a host of smaller, mostly nondescript settlements that began life as tax-collection centres for the British administration. There are plenty of interesting things to see in the lowlands - the weaving crafts of Teya-Teyaneng , the extraordinary caves at Mateka , and Thaba Bosiu , the mountain fortress of Lesotho's founder, King Moshoeshoe I - though in many ways the everyday bustle of life you'll encounter here is the most fascinating part of all. The true splendours of the country, however, lie in its ruggedly beautiful Highlands , an extended mountainous area characterized by plunging valleys, remote villages, improbable roads and inspiring vistas. Once up the steep, twisting roads which lead into the hills you can visit the engineering masterpieces of the Katse and Mohale dams , ski at Oxbow , fish from rivers everywhere, and above all wander through the countryside, dividing your time between remote villages of simple stone-and-thatch huts and the peaceful solitude of the mountains.

Although the tarred road network is good, many Sotho still travel by pony , particularly in the Highlands. You can do the same from pony-trekking lodges all over the country; a day trek or, better, a longer ride incorporating a night in a remote Basotho village, is the way to experience Lesotho. Most of Lesotho's four hundred or more San rock-art sites and the many more dinosaur footprints can only be visited this way - although there are still plenty close by the roads which you can reach with ease if travelling by car.

Overall, Lesotho is a safe country for travellers. Internal strife of the kind seen in 1998 is very uncommon and was largely regarded as uncharacteristic of the Basotho. Muggings and opportunistic theft is on the rise in Maseru; be careful if you're wandering around the back streets here or after dark. In the Highlands, however, hikers and campers normally have little more to worry about than snarling dogs and persistent demands for sweets from children. However, it's unwise to show off your wealth too obviously, and don't leave valuables like cameras lying around unattended.

Costs are lower than in South Africa. Food and public transport are slightly less expensive, while imported items like film are more expensive and only reliably available in Maseru. Pony trekking costs about M120 a day at most of the lodges. A ten percent sales tax is applicable, and often not added to marked prices on menus or in supermarkets and shops.

Visa requirements for the kingdom of Lesotho were in the habit of changing fairly often, but currently seem a little more settled. Commonwealth citizens, except those from India, Pakistan, Nigeria and Ghana, do not need visas, and nor do citizens of France, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland and the USA. You may find that border officials, particularly at smaller entry points, do not know the new rules, and will demand a visa from you even if you don't need one. There is not much you can do about this, but since visas are available on the spot, and are relatively inexpensive (M20/R20 single entry, M40 multiple entry), you may as well pay up. If you have travelled through a yellow fever zone, you will need an International Certificate of Vaccination against yellow fever. The standard entry permit is for fourteen days but, should you need an extension , contact the Department of Immigration and Passport Services, Kingsway, Maseru (tel 31 7339).

Ponies were introduced to Lesotho from the Cape in the nineteenth century, with one of the first given as a present to King Moshoeshoe I by chief Moorosi in 1829. Moshoeshoe learnt to ride that year, and rapidly acquired further steeds, which he distributed to his family and followers. By the time of Moshoeshoe's death in 1870, ponies were widespread throughout the kingdom and the Sotho had become expert riders.

Lesotho's ponies are famously hardy, capable of slogging away for hours and negotiating slippery rock passes. The Sotho rarely groom their ponies, so they usually look pretty dishevelled, but that doesn't affect their performance in the hills, where for many locals they are the only form of long-distance transport.

A number of lodges offer pony trekking, for which no previous experience at all is needed. However, only a few are well-organized, with guides, routes and places to stay worked out in advance. Among the best places are the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre (tel 31 7284), Malealea Lodge (tel 051 447 3200), and the Semonkong Lodge (tel 051 933 3106). You might also consider trying the Trading Post Guest House (tel 34 0202) in Roma, the Molumong Lodge (tel 033 355 1141) near Mokhotlong, and the Mount Maluti Hotel (tel 78 5224) in Mohale's Hoek.

Of the three most professional outfits, the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre is cheapest, at around M100 for a day ride, although there are reports of declining standards. At Malealea and Semonkong , a close watch is kept on the standard of both ponies and guides, which cost around M120 a day. One way to decide which place to go for is to first choose what kind of countryside you want to trek in. Semonkong, Mokhotlong and the area around the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre are all high up, above the sandstone and into the basalt; most of the others are lower down, where weather conditions are usually less variable for you, though the terrain is harder on the ponies.

Wherever you go, make sure you bring a wide-brimmed sunhat, sun protection cream and waterproof gear, and, if you are staying somewhere overnight, a sleeping bag and mat, food, and something to cook it on. A luxury, but one you'll definitely appreciate, is some kind of balm to ease your aching limbs and buttocks, which will certainly be sore after a day's trekking, even if you are used to riding

Entirely surrounded by South Africa and sometimes mistaken for one of apartheid's ill-conceived semi-states, the aptly named "mountain kingdom" of Lesotho (pronounced Le-sue-toe) is, in fact, proudly independent of and very different in character to its dominant neighbour. One refreshing physical (and psychological) contrast is the almost total absence of fences in Lesotho,

which means you can hike into the upland regions at will, while meeting some of the most hospitable people of the region.

The other thing you'll notice pretty quickly is that Lesotho is virtually treeless, with the exception of the invasive and water-hungry eucalyptus and the peach trees introduced by French missionaries a century ago. Indeed, the country - once the grain basket of the region - is in deep ecological trouble, and acres of irreplaceable topsoil, loosened by decades of over-farming, are washed away down its rivers each year.

The Lesotho lowlands form an east-facing crescent around the country, and are where you'll find all the nation's major towns, including the busily practical capital of Maseru , with its very African mix of new glass buildings and dusty streets, and a host of smaller, mostly nondescript settlements that began life as tax-collection centres for the British administration. There are plenty of interesting things to see in the lowlands - the weaving crafts of Teya-Teyaneng , the extraordinary caves at Mateka , and Thaba Bosiu , the mountain fortress of Lesotho's founder, King Moshoeshoe I - though in many ways the everyday bustle of life you'll encounter here is the most fascinating part of all. The true splendours of the country, however, lie in its ruggedly beautiful Highlands , an extended mountainous area characterized by plunging valleys, remote villages, improbable roads and inspiring vistas. Once up the steep, twisting roads which lead into the hills you can visit the engineering masterpieces of the Katse and Mohale dams , ski at Oxbow , fish from rivers everywhere, and above all wander through the countryside, dividing your time between remote villages of simple stone-and-thatch huts and the peaceful solitude of the mountains.

Although the tarred road network is good, many Sotho still travel by pony , particularly in the Highlands. You can do the same from pony-trekking lodges all over the country; a day trek or, better, a longer ride incorporating a night in a remote Basotho village, is the way to experience Lesotho. Most of Lesotho's four hundred or more San rock-art sites and the many more dinosaur footprints can only be visited this way - although there are still plenty close by the roads which you can reach with ease if travelling by car.

Overall, Lesotho is a safe country for travellers. Internal strife of the kind seen in 1998 is very uncommon and was largely regarded as uncharacteristic of the Basotho. Muggings and opportunistic theft is on the rise in Maseru; be careful if you're wandering around the back streets here or after dark. In the Highlands, however, hikers and campers normally have little more to worry about than snarling dogs and persistent demands for sweets from children. However, it's unwise to show off your wealth too obviously, and don't leave valuables like cameras lying around unattended.

Costs are lower than in South Africa. Food and public transport are slightly less expensive, while imported items like film are more expensive and only reliably available in Maseru. Pony trekking costs about M120 a day at most of the lodges. A ten percent sales tax is applicable, and often not added to marked prices on menus or in supermarkets and shops.

Visa requirements for the kingdom of Lesotho were in the habit of changing fairly often, but currently seem a little more settled. Commonwealth citizens, except those from India, Pakistan, Nigeria and Ghana, do not need visas, and nor do citizens of France, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland and the USA. You may find that border officials, particularly at smaller entry points, do not know the new rules, and will demand a visa from you even if you don't need one. There is not much you can do about this, but since visas are available on the spot, and are relatively inexpensive (M20/R20 single entry, M40 multiple entry), you may as well pay up. If you have travelled through a yellow fever zone, you will need an International Certificate of Vaccination against yellow fever. The standard entry permit is for fourteen days but, should you need an extension , contact the Department of Immigration and Passport Services, Kingsway, Maseru (tel 31 7339).

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