The first season of Empire made huge waves across the globe, with a stellar cast and crew delivering on every level when it came to impressing audiences.
Rita McGhee was one member of that crew - the costume designer - who really helped bring a tone and mood to the series which would have been lost without her. We got to put some questions to Rita about working on the show, what's coming up for her next, her Emmy nomination and more in a new and exclusive interview. Read on to find out what she had to say.
How did you come to be a part of the Empire team?
My agent passed over my information and resumé and said that I was perfect for it, and I came in dressed as Cookie Lyon would dress. I came in in a long flowing, low cut, snake skin top and some fitted snake skin pants. I met for my interview with Danny Strong and Lee Daniels and some of the executive producers on the show, and Lee looked at me and he said; 'Did you purposely dress like Cookie?', and I said; 'Yes I did!'
So I came in ready, I did my presentation on tear sheets and was giving them my visual on how I see each character and I did my research on how I see each character as royalty and music and fashion and just, Princess.
How much fun did you have designing the costumes for the series?
It is fun, it's work, it's challenging, it's long hours and a lot of fittings and changes and a lot of characters, so it's fun. It's exhiliarating and I'm very passionate about my work and I'm passionate about designing for the characters and building these characters and setting this tone. So I do, I love it.
Where did you draw influence and inspiration from for your designs?
I drew inspiration from royalty, I drew inspiration from the Kings and Queens over there in London and Europe and I drew inspiration from royalty all over. I looked at the colours that royalty wears, the purples and the golds and the yellows, the signet rings and the monographs; I looked at all of those things to create the look for Lucious, because he is royalty, and he is an emperor and he is a boss. I looked at the Kray Brothers, I looked at how they were a mob and gangsters but they rised to the top. I looked at fedora hats and ascots and scarves and overcoats - the whole thing is the look that created Lucious.
Music inspires me as well, because music and the clothes create an intrical part together, and the clothes speak to who each and every one of these people are.
What were some of your favourite pieces from the first season?
I loved the White Party, and that was the show that was nominated for an Emmy. The furs on Cookie. Lucious had a deep purple suit, and he had a deep eggplant suit, there were just so many pieces. I create where every day is a moment, every day is the first day and every day is the last day, so I wanna make a 'wow' each time. Staying true to the story and characters, staying true to them it makes sense, because it shouldn't be every day is a fashion show because that doesn't make sense to the struggle and what they're going through. So just really making sense to the story, and that's how the clothes reflect that.
How did it feel to gain such praise for your work on the show?
My heart was full and I would just thank God. I was very surprised, very happy, and I believe hard work pays off because I worked really hard on the show, very long hours, even after we would wrap I would stay up for another three hours because there were so many changes. We would have in one show 20+ changes, Lucious would have nine, Cookie would have seven changes, and each of the sons would have five changes and then the guest cast. I put each of the looks together with the accessories, I have a great team helping me, but creating that signature look and setting the tone for Empire, I did that and it did take a lot of work. So I was elated, I was over the moon getting nominated.
You've been in the industry for over 20 years, what advice would you have for those wanting to break into the industry?
Definitely perseverance. The networking is working. If the job pays very little or if the job will pay you in the backhand, or if it's a big job or a small job, do the job. Do the work, and through that work you'll continue to learn your craft and then you'll meet more people that will take you to different levels.
And perseverance, the industry is a difficult business and you deal with very highly creative people, and you have to be well with dealing with personalities and having a thick skin. But still being, for me, the way that I work is still being vulnerable, still being transparent, listening to my actors, listening to my creative people, the creative producers, executive producers, so I think perseverance. Stick with it!
What would you note as some of your biggest career highlights to-date?
Working on Empire and setting the tone for the look of Empire and creating these phenomenal works for Empire, that's one of them, and working with Spike Lee. I just worked with Spike Lee on his new movie, it's called Chiraq and it will be coming out in December. I worked with him and I worked with Ruth Carter, who is my muse and is my mentor, Ruth Carter costume designer, I worked with her on Chiraq. So that's the highlight of my career.
I've worked with Ruth, she's how I started in the business, I was an intern with Ruth 30 years ago, and then 30 years later I am an assistant costume designer on Spike Lee's new movie Chiraq.
Going forward what other aims or goals do you have?
Winning an Emmy and continuing to do great work, working on films and just continuing to build in this industry and to do great work, getting in the Academy and continuing to do great work and great films.
I've also worked with special needs children, so in my off time, going back to school and getting my degree or certificate, and working with special needs.
Aside from Chiraq, is there anything else you're working on in the near future?
Yes, Chiraq comes out in December and right now, I'm working on Zoe Ever After starring Brandi, and it's about fashion and love and family, so what I'm working on right now is another show that I'm designing about fashion.
Empire season 1 is out now on DVD.